Kosher Mexican Pops Up at Talia’s Steakhouse

May 16, 2023 by Chef David

By Sue Weston and Susan Rosenbluth –  Two Sues On The Aisle

To survive in a competitive environment, restaurants need to strike the right balance between satisfying their established customer base with consistent offerings while attracting new diners with innovative culinary concepts. One kosher New York City restaurant, Talia’s Steakhouse & Bar, found its niche with Pop Ups, allowing for the integration of specialty menus prepared by expert chefs for limited engagements.

Shortly before Pesach, The Jewish Voice And Opinion visited the 21-year-old glatt-kosher steakhouse on Manhattan’s Upper West Side to taste its Mexican Pop Up and learn more about the restaurant’s recipe for success.

Owned by Ephraim (Effie) Nagar and named in memory of his daughter, Talia’s is a labor of love, the combined effort of Mr. Nagar and his three sons, who have spent their lives learning the business from cooking techniques to managing operations.

Daniel Nagar, 26, a graduate of Cornell, began peeling potatoes for Thalia’s at the age of seven. His twin brothers, Ben and Adam, now 30, had managed the restaurant before serving in the Israeli Army.

Welcoming Ambience

On entering the restaurant, we were struck by the warm, welcoming ambiance, achieved through a combination of dark wood walls and exposed brick, complimented by a hominess of Kabbalistic-style paintings.

But don’t let the simple furnishings fool you. Each of the white-clothed tables was dimly lit with a red rose and a candle, making it feel ideal for dates; the ample room between tables meant it was also more than suitable for business meetings.

It’s fair to say that Talia’s lives up to its goal of creating a hip, modern place where “everyone, from Chabad and Satmar Chassidim to Modern Orthodox—as well as secular Jews and non-Jews—will feel welcome.”

“Our customers always tell us we’re the best, most progressive-still-frum place in the world,” said Daniel Nagar, adding that the restaurant’s busy Pesach seders—held on-site as well as well as at-home through the wonder of take-out—were an example of “true inclusion,” as are its pre-paid Friday night Shabbat dinners with vegetarian and vegan-gluten-free options.

“We bring people together through high-quality food,” he said.

Mexican Chef Angie

The same care went into planning its Pop-Up Mexican menu, which was authentic—and amazing. Lightly flavored and elegantly plated, the feast was imagined and created by the restaurant’s Chef Angie, a native of Monterrey, Mexico, who moved to New York at the age of 15.

An expert in the cuisine of Puebla, she presented a sampling menu consisting of:

• Guacamole – homemade chips, salsa verde, and salsa roja;
• Elote – grilled street corn with garlic mayo, epazote (a Central-American herb whose pungent taste is reminiscent of oregano, anise, citrus, and mint), chili powder, jalapeño, and lime;
• Tostadas de tinga – three fried tortillas in a chipotle tomato sauce with shredded chicken, chipotle, guacamole, salsa verde, salsa roja, lettuce, and pico de gallo (chopped tomato, onion, and serrano peppers, with salt, lime juice, and cilantro). Served with tomato rice and black beans with epazote; and
• Lamb a la Mexicana — slow-cooked lamb stew with tomato, potato, and jalapeño.

Each of the selections—as well as a few others we had the opportunity to taste—was perfectly spiced and mouth-wateringly wonderful.

It’s nice to know that the Mexican Pop-Up is not the only one offered by Talia’s. Others have included Indian and Nepalese cuisine.

Convenient Hours

Talia’s hours of operation reflect the owners’ understanding of the needs of the kosher community. The restaurant closes at eleven every weeknight, and on Saturday nights, it’s open all night, starting one hour after Shabbat until four in the morning.

On Thursday and Saturday nights, live music is provided with no cover charge.

The menu features traditional steaks and chops, and, of course, burgers, ribs, and brisket. For chicken lovers, there is schnitzel and chicken marsala.

No meat, no problem, Talia’s offers selections of salmon and a host of vegetarian sides including salad, rice, potatoes, sauteed vegetables or spinach, and even falafel and crispy cauliflower. Something for everyone.

Kids Are Welcome

“And we love kids,” said Daniel Nagar, “especially on Sundays.”

While you might not want to bring toddlers under the age of four, parents of those four and up will appreciate not only the typical kids’ menu items but also the available smaller portions of the restaurant’s usual fare, including steaks, fresh fish (non-spicy Moroccan salmon, anyone), and a lot more.

Located at 668 Amsterdam Avenue, Talia’s provides both indoor and outdoor seating and reservations, available either online or by calling 212-580-3770, are recommended.

The restaurant’s kosher certification is from Mehadrin Kashrus, issued by Rabbi Avrohom Marmorstein, president of the West Side Council of Orthodox Jewish Organizations, COJO.

It’s not surprising that Talia’s is literally breaking down walls, expanding to provide a new shawarma-and-schnitzel eatery in its adjoining space. Personally speaking, reviewers from The Jewish Voice look forward to returning, certainly once the new addition has been completed—and probably before.