An Apple-a-Day Never Tasted Better: RootStock Cider and Spirits

Apr 12, 2021 by Chef David

By Chef David

As a beer enthusiast, I was never very interested in hard cider, made from fermented crushed fruit, typically apples. A few weeks ago, however, I discovered that hard cider, with its great flavor and fruity bouquet, is spectacular. In many ways, it can be equivalent to wine.

I really enjoyed the cider produced by Rootstock Cider and Spirits. Certified kosher by the Orthodox Union, the company’s products are produced on the land they own and are grown, pressed, fermented, and bottled on-site. (We have heard they are working on producing a line which will be Kosher for Passover for 2022.)

RootStock ciders contain only two ingredients: New York State apples and select cider-producing yeasts.

A Long Way from Johnny Appleseed

Every child knows the story about America’s legendary Johnny Appleseed (John Chapman), the pioneer who introduced apple trees to large parts of Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, as well as the northern counties of present-day West Virginia in the 18^th and 19^th centuries. What is not widely known is that the apples he planted were sour and bitter and not intended for eating. Most of those early apples were destined to become hard cider or applejack (which has an even higher concentration of alcohol).

Cider became a large component of the diet consumed by those early settlers, most of whom did not have access to freshwater. Many of them drank as much as ten ounces of cider per day—today, the average American drinks 20 ounces of water daily.

The original applejack was made by a process called freeze distillation (jacking), in which the cider was frozen so that the alcoholic top layer could be removed. This works because alcohol freezes at a temperature lower than water, which made applejack ideal for the frontier: no specialized equipment was necessary.

In 1919, Prohibition ended the dominance of spirits made from apples in America, and virtually all cider orchards were chopped down. Only one of Chapman’s many orchards remains. However, apples as a healthy food source became popular. About 20 years ago, apple cider began to regain its popularity.

So Many Varieties  – Ranging from Sweet to Dry

RootStock’s Original apple cider is Semi-Sweet, made from dessert apples and, has a sapphire-yellow color with aromas reminiscent of apples and bananas. This was my favorite, I enjoyed the light, balanced flavor.

I also sampled the Dry, which RootStock describes as resembling a complex brut champaign with a bread-yeasty aroma and a clean, clear flavor.

The company offers a variety that ranges from sweet to dry and all with something interesting for each palate. Even their dry cider has a fruity fragrance and smooth, wine-like appearance, perfect for Shabbos afternoon. They are all disarmingly—and surprisingly—refreshing.

Applejack and Vodka

I was especially eager to sample the company’s Applejack, which I found has a clean taste and a subtle aroma that can be described as a combination of nutmeg and butterscotch. I found it strong but enjoyed it as a mixed drink. When sampled by a Bourbon drinker, it got rave reviews as a clean fresh taste.

I am a vodka enthusiast, and RootStock’s Peach Vodka exceeded my expectations. It has notes of fresh peach and vanilla, and its bouquet is peachy. The flavors are natural and authentic, undoubtedly because the company uses its own fruit. Branded as Tree Vodka it is distilled entirely from apples, but surprisingly not apple-flavored who would have thought that apples could be so versatile!

They recommended that the vodka be used for a fruit-forward cocktail, such as a Cosmo, but I enjoyed it straight on ice. Locally Grown and Produced

David DeFisher, RootStock Cider and Spirits’ founder and owner, takes “great pride in the fruit we grow, and in the fact that we are a true craft-beverage maker.”

His is a farm-distillery, a one-of-a-kind business, which, he says, is “committed to people, sustainability, and supporting the local community and other U.S.-based companies.” He tries to avoid wasting any product or natural resources and uses a solar-energy system.

In fact, it is relatively uncommon to produce alcoholic beverages such as vodka and brandy exclusively from fruits. RootStock goes the extra mile by insisting on using only local produce.

“These fruits only have to travel one square mile from tree to bottle,” says Mr. DeFisher.

Family Business

The cider and spirits division of Mr. DeFisher’s company is an outgrowth of a family business, DeFisher Fruit Farms, established in New York State over five generations ago when William DeFisher emigrated to the U.S. from Holland.

In 2010, David DeFisher opened the first post-prohibition farmstead cidery in the Rochester region dedicated to using only locally sourced ingredients in crafting premium ciders and perry (an alcoholic beverage made from distilled pears). In 2014, RootStock Ciderworks was launched.

In addition to the ciders and vodkas, RootStock’s spirits include Old-World-style fruit brandies (apple, peach, and plum) as well as a range of dessert cordials.

True to its small-town roots, RootStock produces its cider in small batches

Road Trip

Those interested in a road trip should know that RootStock maintains a tasting room in what is sometimes called “apple country” in upstate New York: Williamson in Wayne County, 25 miles east of Rochester near the shores of Lake Ontario.

“It’s where good drinks meet good conversation,” says Mr. DeFisher, describing the room’s hand-hewn beams and reclaimed wood from one of the several more-than-a-century-old barns located on the property.

There, customers can see the elements of the entire operation, including the cider press, aging barrels, and stills, and sample all of RootStock’s products.

For more information, contact RootStock at info@RootStockCiderAndSpirits.com or call 315-589-8733.

You can purchase the ciders online at Rootstock Cider — Rootstock Ciderworks and spirits at Rootstock Spirits Distillery Spirits Shop