Ess Gezint: Jewish Soul Food for Summer

Jun 20, 2015 by Susan Rosenbluth

Jewish Soul Food: Traditional Fare and What It Means by Carol Ungar (Brandeis University Press) is not another “coffee-table” cookbook, almost too beautiful to risk staining in the kitchen. This is a slim paperback with a mission: To showcase the deep link between Jewish foods and Jewish beliefs. For example, she explains that Majadarah is eaten before Tisha B’Av because lentils are closed spheres without an opening or a mouth, just like mourners. She also gives detailed instructions on how to fashion almost two dozen spectacular challahs.

Doctored-Up Gefilte Fish

• 1 frozen log gefilte fish (do not defrost)
• 1 small onion, minced
• 1 tsp salt
• ¼ tsp ground pepper or to taste
• 1 medium-size carrot, left whole
• ¾ cup granulated sugar (optional)

Put the fish roll in a pot with a lid and pour in enough water to submerge the role halfway. Add onion, salt, pepper, and the carrot. If you like it sweet, add sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Continue cooking for 1¼ hours. Check periodically, adding water as needed. Drain, cool, and serve 8. Does not freeze well.

Anglo-Jewish Gefilte Fish Balls

Makes 3-40 balls to serve 10

• 1 frozen log gefilte fish
• ¼ tsp black pepper
• 1 cup matzoh meal
• Vegetable oil for deep frying
• Ketchup, chutney, or dipping sauce (optional)

Defrost gefilte fish by leaving it in the refrigerator overnight. Add pepper and then matzoh meal, one handful at a time so that you can form the fish into walnut-sized balls. The mixture should be soft but able to be handled. Heat 2 inches of oil in a stockpot or deep saucepan. There should be another 2 inches of clearance over the top of the oil. When oil reaches 365° on a deep-fat frying thermometer, drop balls in batches into the hot oil. Do not crowd the pot. Deep fry for about 6 minutes, until browned on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Serve hot or cold with or without ketchup, chutney, or dipping sauce.

Rice-and-Lentil Pilaf (Majadarah) – Serves 4

• 1 cup brown or green lentils
• 1½ Tbs plus ¼ cup vegetable or olive oil
• 2 cups basmati rice
• Salt
• 6 cups boiling water or stock
• 3 medium Vidalia onions, sliced into thin crescents
• ¼ tsp cumin
• ¼ tsp black pepper
• Greek yogurt for serving (optional)

Cover lentils with water in a saucepan and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes until tender. Drain. Heat 1½ Tbs oil in a large saucepan over medium flame and sauté rice briefly, stirring. Add lentils and 2 tsp salt. Pour boiling water or stock over rice and lentils. Simmer on a low flame, covered, for 20 minutes. Heat remaining ¼ cup oil in a skillet over a medium flame and sauté onions, stirring frequently, until dark brown, about 10 minutes. Add cumin, pepper, and salt to taste. To serve, spoon rice and lentils onto a serving platter and top with fried onions. Can be served with yogurt.